SALMON AND TROUT FISHING IN SUTHERLAND
Sutherland comprises the far north west of Scotland. It is a scenic wilderness of rocky coasts, sandy beaches, high mountains and wild moor land. The roads are narrow and, except for the few ‘A’ roads, you need to keep a sharp lookout for approaching vehicles and observe the etiquette of ‘Passing Places’. Villages are few and far between and, just because a village is marked on the map, it does not mean that the village has a shop or a petrol station. It pays never to let your petrol tank get less than half full.
The north west, with Lochinver as the base, is approached by road from Inverness in the south east nearly two hours away. To the north is Durness which is pretty isolated and to the north east is Bonar Bridge and Lairg, again two names but little substance in the way of modern shopping amenities.
The skyline is dominated by mountains like Quinaig which, when viewed from Loch Glendhu resembles a profile of Queen Victoria, Canisp, the curiously-shaped Suilven and many more peaks. With lots of mountains there is a good rainfall for most of the year and the rain runs off the hills into streams rivers and lochs by the hatful. The rivers and lochs have healthy populations of brown trout and are visited by some sea trout and many salmon. Recently, I sat on the banks of the lower River Inver and counted a salmon per minute negotiating the first weir above the falls.
Where to fish
Purchase the appropriate Ordnance Survey map (Landranger 15: Loch Assynt, Lochinver & Kylescu) and have a look! It’s as easy as that because there are so many available waters, many of them by the road side with easy parking (but please make sure that you do not park in a designated Passing Place).
LOCH ASSYNT
Assynt is a very big loch and the A837 runs along side the north bank for the whole of its length. There are several convenient lay-byes for parking and a short walk to the areas of the loch open to fishing on an Assynt Angling Association day ticket (£ 5.00) which may be obtained from the Tourist Information Office and the Inverlodge Hotel both in Lochinver.
It would takes years to get to know this huge expanse of water in its many moods and it’s perhaps best to be guided by local knowledge and fish a team of traditional wet flies. Because it is such a big water, I took a nine and a half foot rod and a floating WF8 line the first time I fished Assynt. However, I found that during late summer and early autumn a cautious approach and a smaller rod and line returned more fish. There are always plenty of trout within a few yards of the bank and to march boldly up to the water’s edge and start throwing heavy lines towards the opposite bank simply scares off the many catchable fish which inhabit the margins.
Have a look at the little bay where there are a couple of boats moored which is adjacent to a large lay-by on the A837. There are usually a few good sized brown trout just below the surface and quite ready to take a carefully presented fly.; but one splashy cast and they disappear quietly and quickly.
FIONN LOCH
This is a favourite venue because of the environment of the mountains, especially Suilven brooding across the loch. The problem with Fionn Loch is that it has been moved since last year. I have the proof; then it took me an hour and a quarter to walk from the car park at Inverkirkaig; this year it took an hour and twenty five minutes! The walk back is of no consequence because it is mainly down hill.
The fishing can be very good or very disappointing with a handful of very small brown trout to show for the long walk. On balance the fishing is good with several trout over the pound mark. I do better with dry fly than wet on this water but the takes are very quick with most coming as the fly lands on the surface. The tendency is to snatch, a reflex action, that only takes the fly out of the fish’s mouth. Give it a long second before tightening and the fish is much more likely to be hooked.
This is one venue where I unashamedly do a little poaching. I simply cannot resist a few minutes sport on the upper Kirkcaig river just below the exit from Fionn Loch. There are usually some good sized brownies a couple of hundred metres down from the loch and then there is a marvellous little pool below the first set of rapids. The Fionn Loch ticket does not cover the angler for the river fishing but it is so remote that it’s worth taking a chance as long as you are on trout tackle and not salmon gear.
One tip about fishing Fionn Loch is to completely disregard the weather down at Inverkirkcaig and take warm, waterproof clothing with you. I have a good, roomy day bag in which I put the extra clothing along with the minimum of fishing tackle. The travel rod goes on one shoulder and I do not bother with a landing net. I have never been on Fionn Loch, even in August, without needing a sweater and a complete waterproofed outfit. It does not simply rain; the heavens urinate with vigour and frequency according to polite local lore.
MANSE LOCH
Take the B869 for a mile from the A837 and there are a couple of rough parking spaces in the lane on the right hand side of the road opposite to the sign for Torbreck House. Follow this lane away from the road and Manse Loch is a few minutes walk away due north. Quite convenient really and I have never noticed any other cars parked here or any one fishing the loch either. If you prefer you may leave your car in Lochinver and the walk is about forty minutes depending on what you decide to carry with you.
Manse Loch fished well on the only occasion I visited. I started on dry flies, Greenwell’s to start with and then a little dark brown Hopper pattern that resembled a current hatch. The fish rose well and quickly; if there had not been an attempted take in five or six seconds none materialised. On these occasions it is viable to fish a dry fly with a fluorocarbon tippet for the fly is not on the water long enough to be pulled under the surface. Trout landed were up to a pound and very good sport. Locals tell me that there are some much better fish in the loch but it’s a matter of knowing where they are, when they feed and how to catch them. For all this, it’s unlikely that you will go away from Manse Loch empty handed.
MAIDEN LOCH
Follow the B869 north from Manse Loch until you arrive at the tiny seaside village of Clatchtoll. Just before the village you will see Maiden Loch on the right hand side of the road but carry on to the Parking Area near the camp site and walk back to the loch. It’s a big and pretty water with plenty of room to fish and a sporting head of brown trout to pursue using similar methods to those employed on Manse Loch.
Rods, Lines and Flies
I try and fish as lightly as I can in these waters. The fish are not so big as reservoir rainbows so big tackles is not required. I catch most of these brown trout within five or six yards of the water’s edge so distance casting is not usually an issue. A nine foot rod that casts a five weight Double or Forward taper and a leader down to a three or even a two pound tippet is sufficient for most lochs. Additionally, if you are fishing one of the more distant lochs you want to carry as little as possible. I have two rods that fit the bill and they are both 4-section, nine foot rods, a Daiwa and a Fulling Mill.
Many of the lochs have surprisingly good natural supplies of trout food and old established flies will always catch fish: Kate McClaren, Zulu, Soldier Palmer, Black Pennel and other traditional wets fished as a team of three or singly are recommended. Big flies are not needed; size 16 is favourite but a size 14 or 18 will also catch well. Dry flies, again either singly or with a team of two or three depending on the wind give satisfying sport. On some of the lochs around Lochinver there is a very good Mayfly hatch that can last into July and the trout greedily take quite large patterns. I generally do better with dry flies than wet flies on the lochs but other fishermen had good results with the traditional wets.
I have tried weighted nymphs with great success in the rivers. I found river trout a little shy of dry flies (but it was probably my presentation) and a weighted GRHE or brown nymph cast upstream and allowed to trundle down with the current took a lot of fish. The bites came either as the nymph began to sink or at the end of the run as the line started to straighten out in the current. There are so many brown trout that there is great competition for food and bites are fast and strong.
Contacts
Salmon and trout fishing contacts for Assynt area of Sutherland:
Tourist Information Centre, Lochinver, Sutherland
Inverlodge Hotel, Lochinver, Sutherland
Reay Forest Estate Office, Achfary, Sutherland
Kylestrome Estate Office, Kylestrome, Sutherland
Scourie Hotel, Scourie, Sutherland
Rhiconich Hotel, Rhiconich, Sutherland
Mr MacKay, Rigistrars Office, Scourie, Sutherland
This is by no means an exhaustive list and there are other hotels in the area where permits may be obtained, ie, at Inchnadamph, Elphin, Drumbeg but I have no experience of dealing with them to date and cannot offer any advice. I’m sure that they will be as welcoming and accommodating as the ones already indicated above.
Salmon fishing is much more expensive than trout fishing and you can expect to pay around £ 100 a day on a river beat with no guarantees of catching a fish! Trout fishing is ridiculously inexpensive and in most cases it is £ 5 a day (boats optional extras on many lochs for as little as £ 10 per day). If you are a trout fisherman this place is a delight and it’s not worth poaching for the sake of £ 5. The money is used for conservation of these beautiful fishing places and does not go to line the pocket of an absentee landlord.
Tight Lines!
Eddie Caldwell
