Commercial Fisheries Part 10- Rod and Reel Floatfishing #1This week I’ll look at the tackle needed for rod and reel float fishing. Although the pole takes some beating in terms of bait presentation, and modern elastic systems can be extraordinary in helping you play fish, there are times when fishing with a rod and reel can be advantageous. Alternatively, you may already own a rod and reel and feel that pole fishing is not for you, and would like to get more out of using a rod on stillwaters. Fishing with a rod and reel has two big advantages over a pole.
Additionally, you can achieve different bait presentation to that with the pole, and in some conditions like high winds it may be your only option. The versatility of having both methods available is even better, and one that a top match angler, for instance, must master. For generations, “match rod” has been the name for general floatfishing rods, and that is still true today. The modern match rod is a far more forgiving and versatile tool than that obtainable even a decade ago. You can use lines up to five pounds bs on a modern match rod, and it will soak up the punishment. Whilst the action will feel tippy at first, as you load up the pressure more action comes into play in the middle joint.  Not every so-called match rod is going to be a paragon of virtue; with rods costing anything from a tenner to £ 400, you will get what you pay for. The very cheapest of rods will be made of either fibreglass or a carbon fibre/glass fibre mix, have a poor action, feel top heavy, and generally be unsatisfactory. But many rods that cost from about £ 50 upwards are at worst useable and at best a delight to fish with. Many of these better rods are perfectly suited to fishing with lines between two and four pounds, and using hook links from a pound to four pounds with hooks from the tiniest upwards. Such a rod is ideal for all forms of light floatfishing, whether on lakes or rivers. Just to confuse matters, however, a new type of match rod has increasingly entered the scene in recent years. This is very much driven by the increase in the popularity of the stocking of carp, and the fact that traditional match rods, whilst ideal for fish up to about three or four pounds can be distinctly under-gunned when it comes to fish that are averaging five to ten pounds. We are still well short of proper carp fishing, and there is a point where something that is better described as a barbel rod should be employed. These new match rods are known as “power” match rods, and are almost a match rod equivalent of a traditional Avon rod with a similar test curve of about a pound or so, though less of a through action. This increase in power allows you to fish with lines of five to eight pounds, and bigger hooks. As with the match rods these can be used on rivers to float fish for big fish like chub and barbel, as well as being versatile enough to be suitable for tench fishing on lakes. Personally I wouldn’t be without a rod of this type although there are times when even this sort of rod is under-gunned and then I will floatfish with a heavier rod still. (I was once laughed at before a match for tackling up a carp rod with 12lb line and floatfishing gear – after the match I was the one laughing. I landed my carp!) So, given a choice, what rod to plump for? If you’re going to do a lot of fishing on this type of water, and you expect to be catching plenty of carp, and want a rod that is versatile enough for river chub floatfishing and tench on stillwaters then a good power float rod should be ideal. These rods are usually 13 feet and for a general rod this ideal. There is a case for long rod which can be up to 20 feet but to start with the standard length is best. When trying out rods in the tackle shop see if you can take your usual reel with you and put it on the rod. Thread up the line as well if possible and get a proper feel for the rod. Does it feel top heavy? Is the handle comfortable? What is the action like? These are subjective tests but better to get a rod that feels right than one that is uncomfortable or unbalanced. Reels If you haven’t already got a reel then you will need one to go with the rod. Fixed spool reels come in many sizes; small ones for float fishing (often called a 2500 size), slightly bigger ones for feeder fishing (a 4000 size), and bigger ones still for carp fishing (5000 and upwards, usually with a free-spool facility).  The important factors for a floatfishing reel are that you can reach the lip of the spool easily with your fore finger when holding the reel, and that it is lightweight, which suggests that a well designed reel in the 2500 size is ideal. Two brands of reel seem to have got the proportions right; Daiwa and my personal choice Shimano. An added bonus with Shimano is the proven and superb Fightin’ Drag. A reel this size will be ideal for light feeder and leger work, though if you intend fishing ‘The Method’ then a bigger reel will be required, something that’ll be covered later in the series. I like to have at least two spare spools and I suggest you do the same. Lines Reel lines need to be robust. It’s a simple case of knowing two or three good tough reel lines and taking it from there. For many years Maxima has been a favourite reel line for many, though it would appear that there are better lines around now but it is reliable if a little on the thick side. For a truly cheap but reliable line, Daiwa Sensor is brilliant stuff; for 4lbs bs and upwards it is available in bulk, and at £ 6.99 for 3000 metres (4lbs) unbeatable value. For a cheap robust line in higher breaking strains it also serves well for feeder and Method fishing. For float fishing you may need different breaking strain lines according to what you are fishing for. Roach fishing needs 2lb line but once you start float fishing for small carp then 4lbs is better suited and you will need stronger than this for bigger fish. One characteristic of the Sensor line is that its true breaking strain is more than that stated on the spool; the 4lb breaks at over 6lbs! What is important is that the line you use is matched to the rod. A standard match rod is fine for reel lines of 2lbs up to perhaps 5lbs, 6lbs at a pinch. A power float rod will be too powerful for lines of less than 4lbs bs, though it should handle lines up to 8lbs bs.  What is important is that you load the spool up correctly. The line needs to come to about 3mm/ 1/8 inch of the lip of the spool. On most spools a 100 metres will come nowhere near that, and you’ll need to put backing line on first. This is where a bulk spool of cheap line is invaluable. The crafty way to do this is with a reel that has two or more identical line capacity spools. Wind on the 100 metres of line onto one spool then add on the backing on top of this until the spool is correctly filled. Then take that spool off and attach the end of the backing to the other spool and wind the entire line onto the other spool leaving the actual reel line on top. Done this way you only need to periodically replace the top 100 metres of line. When I want to use just one of the lines off a bulk spool I do it in a way that there is a knot about 100 metres form the end. Again you use two spools but after 120 turns of the handle you cut the line and re-join it then continue as before. This saves changing 250 metres of line every time. It is important to changes your lines on a regular basis as they do wear out. As mentioned in the pole fishing articles it is worth using a different line for your hook length. It should be a slightly smaller diameter and breaking strain to your main line. This is where co-polymer lines come are best. A line like Preston Innovations Reflo Powerline is perfect for the job. Again, you’ll need a selection of diameters. Floats Wagglers  The traditional still water float is a waggler float. This is a simple length of peacock quill usually with a thinner insert in the tip that is attached bottom end only. By shotting the float with the bulk of the weight around the base of the float, and just a few small shot spaced down the line, this versatile method allows you to cast well beyond pole range. It is therefore useful to have a selection of insert wagglers taking from around 3BB to 4AAA shot. Some waters that are very deep may require the use of special floats such as sliders but this initial selection is a good starting point.  Pole floats Whether I think differently to the majority I don’t know but I see nothing wrong with using pole floats with a rod and reel. When I do so then I don’t cast them at all simply fishing them underneath my rod tip. All I can suggest at this stage is that it is worth having a few pole floats taking from 0.3 grams to a gram even if you don’t own a pole. Other tackle Although you can do without some of the paraphernalia of the pole angler you’ll still need a selection of shot, hooks, disgorgers, nets, catapults and plummets.  Now we’ve looked at the tackle, next week we’ll do some float fishing with a rod and reel |
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