Float making.

ian g

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Thanks for the replies , I like using the acrylic paint as it's water based and easy to clean the brushes . I've been using Ronseal clear satin exterior varnish to finish the floats off but I'm not over impressed with it, I may try thinning it down a bit . Looks like Morrells are in a bit of a lock down mode so I might give hard as nails a go . I'll post some pictures when I work out how to ;)
 

Aknib

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Here's an idea for anyone with an aversion to paint, the paintless float!

Well not really, I painted the quill and the white tip band but certainly didn't have or need to so hopefully you get the idea.

It would look quite nice against an unpainted balsa/reed/cane etc. material.

I never got around to finishing it with varnish as it was just a bit of an experiment but along with the black the red tip colour is a thread that's been whipped on as opposed to painted on...





image post

You could make it work on any shape and material.
 
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rayner

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For paint, I will be using durable matt from Johnsons paints, plus a coat of acrylic varnish. Far easier than messing around with oil-based. It may bloom when the floats have been in the water a while but who cares.
Hard as nails is very good but if you have anything like an amount it could cost. I use it on factory-made pole floats, the build on factory floats is not the strongest and a couple of coats of the hard as nails helps.

I could well try just painting the insert tip of the Peacocks I have done, the balsa will of course need painting.
 
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Bobnewboy

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Thanks for the replies , I like using the acrylic paint as it's water based and easy to clean the brushes . I've been using Ronseal clear satin exterior varnish to finish the floats off but I'm not over impressed with it, I may try thinning it down a bit . Looks like Morrells are in a bit of a lock down mode so I might give hard as nails a go . I'll post some pictures when I work out how to ;)

Put the Ronseal in a Bain Marie, and keep it warm/hot. It really does help. I have been using some of that varnish on some outdoors furniture (lockdown job), and warming it through has helped to get a much better finish, even when it’s 20-25 centigrade outside.

For floats however, I use nail varnish. Its cheap, readily available, and dries quickly.
 

ian g

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Thanks Bob , I'll give the bain marie method , though lock down with my wife and kids may put a stop to that one.
 

bracket

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Here are two floats I made some years ago, intended for specific purposes. The small waggler at the bottom of the picture is peacock quill with a balsa body for fishing fast shallow rivers, 2ft and less, primarily for chub along the far bank. The shot load, around 3 ssg allows for a gentle under arm cast and on the strike the float folds so you are straight to the fish and don't hit the float first, as you would with double rubber set up. Well that's the theory and it worked pretty well. I used it when fishing the River Derwent at Church Wilne and also the Upper Witham around Long Bennington and Dry Doddington. Both are fast flowing shallow rivers and not very wide. The upper float is one I made 60 years ago to fish the Lift Method for bream and trench. I was an apprentice and used it on my Works stretch of at Attenborough Gravel pit. My thinking was that the bottom body would provide the buoyancy to accelerate the lift, when a bite occurred, while the smaller top body would add some stability at the surface. I don't know if my logic was sound, but by luck or judgement it seemed to work. Both were simple to make and functional. Pete

20200418_200322.jpg
 
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108831

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Just in the process of making two Trent trotters,all glued up,black markered the balsa and put some base white in readiness for fluoro orange tip paint to go on and the five coats of yacht varnish,better get my finger out,else they wont be ready in time...







For Christmas!!!
 

rayner

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Both wagglers I make are either Peacock or balsa. They are both coated with one coat of paint, a black tip from a marker pen. I'm fond of the untidy look. I doubt the fish will be bothered one way or the other. I have had to stop production, how many floats does a chap need. Being stuck in the house floats are useless to me.
 

108831

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As I said in my post in the buying tackle thread,ive just bought five Drennan 2.5AA puddle chuckers,which I use in shallow clear water on rivers as they are similar to Trent trotters,I had the materials so knocked a couple up,only really take around 5/6 days allowing drying time eh...
 

108831

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One,maybe two coats of yacht varnish to go on,looking now as though I should have put two coats of fluoro orange on,just for 'prettyness'...
 

rayner

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One,maybe two coats of yacht varnish to go on,looking now as though I should have put two coats of fluoro orange on,just for 'prettyness'...

The time and effort you've put into your floats put my single coat in the shade. I even got fed up glueing my efforts, I glued half a dozen then found other things to do. I'm relying on paint holding mine together.
If I get a season or two from my floats I'll be satisfied, I have a leaning toward the unkempt bedraggled look. :eek:mg:
 

rayner

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Aknib, I'm surprised I got a like for my post from such an illustrious float maker as your self. My floats are nowhere near your standard.
Even the way you store your floats give mine at best a rugged look, truthfully my floats give the impression of looking like a dust bin as been kicked over.
 

108831

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My main reason for doing what varnishing etc that I do is that I detest floats leaking during a session and either having to change them,or adjust the shotting,grrr.....lol
 

Aknib

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Aknib, I'm surprised I got a like for my post

It was the bit about the paint holding 'em together Gaz, made me chuckle out loud lol.

At the end of the day it doesn't really matter, you've made 'em yourself and I'm sure they'll be in more than capable hands when it comes to 'em catching a few fish :)

Edited to add:

The paint holding 'em together thing instantly reminded me of British Leyland!
 
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rayner

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The one coat of paint is ample, also good enough to hold both the insert and the plastic eye in the place.
Been putting on the shotting capacities, I used a small paper label on with a coat of clear varnish. A shame really that the ink smudged with the varnish, adds to the untidy look that I must aim for.
 

jpwebster

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@purplepeanut007 what do you use to write the shotting capacity on your floats? and do you varnish over that afterwards to protect further?

I tried an indian ink pen but it still smudges after leaving to dry.
 

purplepeanut007

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Indian ink, leave overnight, apply 2 coats of solvent based lacquer, leave over night. You should be ok then pal
 

rayner

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Mark Wintle

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Although I've got far too many floats I have started making a few lately. Not entirely happy with these, not straight enough for my liking but continuing with experimenting with hollow pole float tips that are far superior to painted solid ones. I'm also using 8lb Sensor for whipping with the swivels held in a loop of 18lb Sensor. The two brown floats have two coats of acrylic water-based waterproof paint as an experiment to see how robust this is. Second float from the left is loaded with brass rod. The black insert is cocktail straws. Since then I've made another batch of 4 that I have yet to finish.

IMG_4366 floats.jpg
 
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