chavender
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not that extraordinarily thin ,if you use the top section of the quill (the bit with the 'eye' motif ) as the base of the float
the peacock quill has three distinct sections ;
the bottom section:
is only the last 4" or so that slots into the birds body ,this usually has a set or kink in it ,and often used as a float tip and ends where the quill straitens up too form the mid section
the mid section:
is the straitest part of the quill ,some 12" -18" or so of uniform thickness quill with a long drawn out taper with 1,2mm difference between start of section and the end.
the end section:
this starts roughly where the quill starts too bend under its own weight if held upright and extends too the very tip ,it has a long drawn out taper ,thinning down quickly over 12 to 18"+ with a 2-5mm difference between ends .
i'd think a reversed peacock would start in the tip section and extend down into the mid section .there would be only a small area of the quill thats (about 2") that has a dia of 3mm or thereabouts ,above this area the quill might be too brittle for this application .
finding the correct (base) diameter for the float is the starting point ,then by carefully selection of feathers / quill's will give you a range of quill with slightly greater gradients too the tapers .
the weight carrying capacity would be determined by length the more you extend into the mid section ,the thicker the quill gets ,until uniform thickness is achieved ,then its a matter of length = capacity and with a range of tapers you should get a close set of floats of near equal length but varied shotting capacities
a simple method starting with a full length striped peacock quill ,find the 3mm area and trim off the rest of the tip section (or leave a stub of 2-3" below the 3mm area,to later form a quill eye if desired ) then do a tank test ,to determine final cut of float per given shotting weight . find the water lever per given weight (and mark position) then mark 1" - 1½" above this to form the tip & cut ,retest it at the shortened length too double check ,then rub the area with grit paper too form a domed top but keeping the thickness as best you can ,then paint the tip ,the stem can be left as is or painted .
you can either whip a bit of wire too the 3mm end or mark the quill here and leave 1" - 1½" below this point too form a quill eye .every quill has a hard edge and a soft edge (normally with the hurl perpendicular too these)
make a cut a ¼" in at a 40* angle towards the hard edge then along behind the hard edge .too form a sliver that you bend back too meet the stem near the 40* cut then trim to ¼" overlap and whip ,the size of the eye is upto you but ¼" is a good size . then you'll end up with a set of floats that step down in size with a corresponding drop in shotting capacity.
i hope this helps
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