Is that the rod I tried to buy from the US unsuccessfully Kev? I thought you liked it.Another through action disappointment was a Shimano float rod I bought from someone who imported it. Made for the US market, it was a beautiful, slim, cork-handled classic design with a line rating of 6-12lb and I fancied it as a barbel float rod.
I think the problem is many rods are now made for distance casting not fish playing.If we have any older generation sea anglers the change can be seen most dramatically when we look at old beach casting rods compared to the rods we use today for the same purpose. Though action rods were common in the 60and 70s in contract the rods today,they are so stiff the rod hardly bends even when playing a fish.
Of course there are some excellent rods that contrive to combine fast striking and forgiving tips with non-locking playing actions.
Hi Tigger,I think I have a few that fit that description Kev....you described that well .
I'm not sure if some people would describe them as being a progressive action, because they have a fast strike and are quite tippy, the same as a spliced tip almost, until enough pressure is exerted at which point the rods start to bend through through the middle and when enough pressure is put on they bend into the butt. I think those are perfect for float fishing on the river.
I have the browning spliced tip rods and although quite a stiff bottom and middle section they do bend through under load, so a very nice action. I'm yet to find out for sure but I think the spliced tip may not be so good for hitting fish at distance on the trott. Reason I say this is because the tip is so soft and folds easier on the strike so not driving the hook home so well as a hollow tipped rod with a more powerful tip section. If I live through this virus i'll be interested to see if my theory is correct or not.
Re: the Browning spliced tip rods, I've not had any problem setting the hooks or bumping fish, although distance is relative I suppose. If I keep a tight line to the float a simple flick of the rod is enough, bearing in mind I tend to fish fine with small barbless hooks or B560s with the barb crimped down. I tend to use the 13'6" for stick float fishing (where if I have to go more than 25 yards I'm not feeding properly) or the 15'6" on the bolo where I'm likely to run twice that distance.
I often cast further across the river than that with a bolo float and then let it run up to 50 yards. It's easy enough to keep a direct line to a 4 or 5gr float so I only have to tighten up to set the hook. Bigger barbed hooks might be a problem I suppose but I rarely use those for float fishing.Trotting at those shorter distances isn't quite the same. I very often cast 25 yards across the flow before the trott starts. To hit fish/set the hook a simple flick of the wrist won't set the hook properly and then you would most likely start missing/bumping fish. That would apply wether your line is tight to the float or not.
Chris, from this conversation so far I can only conclude that yourself and rob48 are better at trotting than me, I do admire you both if you can practice what you preach.I'm having no issues with the Brownings at far more extreme ranges. I'm not having to resort to excessive sweeping striking methods either.