Lake Nasser Safari

I spent the last week of October fishing the Severn for Barbel, I managed to bag a double along with plenty more smaller Barbel. All week the weather was wet and the river in flood, a far cry from the unbroken sunshine and 90 degree heat I would face just a few days later.

Going to Egypt with me would be Steve Ames and his partner Lynda. This would be Steve’s fifth trip to Lake Nasser. I would be using gear loaned to me by Steve and his experience was vital in selecting the right equipment for the job. For trolling we would use Shimano charter special multiplier reels loaded with 50lb Fireline attached to a 100lb mono leader. Rods would be Diawa 5lb test curve catfish specials. For fishing from the many rocky islands we would visit we would use 3lb test carp rods with large fix spool reels, 30lb Fireline and mono leader. Steve also packed a fly outfit with which he planned to have some fun fishing for the tiger fish and puffers around the lake.

We left Gatwick at 9 am for our direct flight to Aswan, the near 6 hour flight and the 2 hour time difference saw our Arrival in Egypt as the sun was setting. We were met at the airport by what must be the best holiday rep in the business as we were through customs and in our waiting taxi before most people were even off the plane. A short but exhilarating taxi journey had us at the marina where we boarded the boat which would be our home for the next week. A 30ft steel hulled boat with 3 berths, typical of the many boats that carry tourists around Lake Nasser and the River Nile.

The accommodation onboard was adequate with plenty of storage and a comfortable bed. The crew onboard with us consisted of Morad, who would drive the boat and was also the fishing guide. Hamsa was the cook and chief steward, the trio was completed by Kahlil, an Armed Police officer. “Bloody hell!” I thought, I must be important seeing as i have got an armed guard for the week, but Steve informed me all tourist boats that work around the Lake carry an armed guard for the safety of the tourists.

As we woke the next morning to the honey light of the sunrise we were soon greeted with a mug of tea and within minutes were on our way. The plan was to motor down the lake for a couple of hours before having breakfast. Then to start fishing immediately after breakfast, this would give myself and Steve time to rig up our gear as we travelled.

Lake Nasser is the largest man made lake in the world, the lake as it is today was created in the early seventies when the High Dam at Aswan was built, flooding many Nubian villages and historical sites. The lake is over 300 miles long and as wide as 25 miles in places, with depths as much as 600ft it is more like a sea than a freshwater lake. The fact that a mountainous valley was flooded as the waters rose gives Nasser its unique landscape. With many islands deep gorges and shallow areas that change as the waters of the lake rise and fall during the year by as much as 80 foot.

The main form of fishing would be trolling lures behind the boat, as the Yamaha outboard chugged us around the various fishing marks that Morad had selected. The fish finder on the boat is essential to find the many peeks and troughs around the lake. With a depth of say 100ft very rapidly changing to just 15 or 20 ft it was critical we passed over such areas where the Nile Perch would lay in wait of a tasty meal.

Various lures were used depending upon the depth we were fishing, for deeper areas we used Depth raiders, Ernie and Sorcerers and for the shallow marks, Shad Raps and smaller countdowns. All lures were first treated to a new set of much stronger hooks and for lures with three sets of hooks the middle treble was removed. With the aid of an essential set of split ring pliers all hooks were re attached with a very strong split ring. Whilst fishing we would often have the lure hit rocks etc as we Trolled and would have to sharpen hooks as we fished.

After a basic but none the less tasty Breakfast of Omelette followed up with Bread and jam washed down with plenty of Tea, I was ready for the off and we started fishing a little after 10am with the temperature already up in the 70,s. Having never fished this style before it took a bit of getting used to with the action of the lure almost pulling the rod in, but Steve’s experience soon had me fishing more confidently. With floating weed a problem and as we passed over the flooded islands that were ideal feeding grounds for our prey the risk of hooking debris increasing it is essential to feel for the action of the lure and if in any doubt the lure was retrieved and checked.

I near had a heart attack as Steve shouted “fish on” and Morad cut the Engine as the clutch on Steve’s reel played an angry tune as the unseen fish went on a furious run, seconds later around 20lb of Nile perch cleared the water and shook its head in an attempt to shed the lure some 60yds behind the boat. A few minutes later our first fish lay in the boat with the hooks removed and pictures taken it was soon returned to fight another day.

The fish finder in the boat had us fishing in around 25 ft of water with groups of fish showing as we passed over various areas. We had only been fishing around 10 minutes after returning Steve’s fish when it was my turn. Without warning the rod was almost torn from my hand then a violent shake of the rod and scream of the reels clutch had me crying “fish on”. The first run was soon over as the fish again jumped clear of the water, every twist and turn of the fish is transferred to the rod via the braided mainline. With the fish safely boated and unhooked and some photos taken I was well pleased to return my first ever Nile perch a good specimen around 20lb.

We stopped for lunch soon after returning my fish, with thousands of small islands to chose from, Morad soon had us moored on one such island, like most a mixture of rocks and sand with very little plant life but a wide variety of various creatures like scorpions and lizards. On one such small island we also spotted one of the many crocodiles that live in the lake, this one must have been 10ft long; a right nasty looking sod as well. With the sun now high in the sky and no sign of a cloud the temperature was well into the eighties I took the chance to freshen up with a swim, but not before checking the area for Mr Crocodile!

After a lazy lunch we were soon trolling again and Steve again managed to boat a fish around 20lbs. the day was all too soon over with the sky almost ablaze as a spectacular sunset signalled the end of the day. If I take one memory from Egypt it will be the daily glorious spectacle of sunrise and sunset.

The next few days followed a similar pattern up before sunrise, an early cuppa then out on the lake trolling for a couple of hours before breakfast. After breakfast again a couple of hours fishing or moving to other marks before a longer break to allow us to have a swim or fish from the shore. Hamsa would serve us with a lunch and mid afternoon would again see us trolling through until sunset, when we would then moor up just before dark for the night. We would then have an evening meal and a night cap or two before bed, food onboard although basic was always well prepared. To complement the food there was an endless amount of tea, coffee, bottled water or cold drinks always available. With the help of some old freezers packed to the brim with ice the food and drinks were kept cold all week. We still had ice cold Coke and Fanta in the ice box when we left the boat at the end of the week.

Fishing with lures from the shore proved unsuccessful but Steve had some great fun with his fly outfit with several small perch coming to the wet fly. He also had tapalia and puffer fish to add to the entertainment. Fly fishing for the bigger Nile perch is an area that some of the Nasser regulars are using to tempt the fish from the shore. Some success is also coming to other anglers using jelly lures instead of the harder lures currently in use. The use of live and dead baits is still to be put to the test, with the few anglers that have tried having great results.

For breakfast one morning we moored on an island which was being used as a base by some local fisherman. These fishermen use either long lines or nets to catch the various fish that inhabit Nasser. Once caught, the fish are salted and stored in stone shelters built on the islands by the fishermen. Every few days a large boat will call and collect the salted fish and leave the fishermen fuel and other supplies. As the lake level changes during the year islands will be abandoned and others used to allow for the rise or fall of the level. In return for some chocolate and Coke we were given a guided tour by the fishermen of their island, they were happy to show us some salted fish, their boat and nets.

Lynda, although not an angler was having a good time and we certainly had a few laughs along the way. One evening around midnight we were woken by some gnawing and scratching noises on the boat which turned out to be a desert rat. Lynda and I had problems sleeping as the noise kept us awake, her knight in shining armour (Steve) did not come to the rescue either, with his earplugs in he slept through the entire 2 hour episode.

Some of the bigger islands are inhabited by the Nubian tribesman who as well as fish, keep animals for food. As the lake level changes they will move to higher or lower ground accordingly. Passing by one such area we saw a large heard of sheep as well as donkeys and camels.

All too quickly our holiday was coming to an end, as it was the fifth of November what better way to spend our last night than on a desert island with a large bonfire. At the various stops during the day we had collected fire wood, our Egyptian friends were keen to help. During the day Steve caught a perch around 15lb which Hamsa would cook on the fire. What a great night, it turned out I love a big bonfires and the fish and baked potatoes added to the occasion. With the lack of light pollution in the desert area I have never seen so many stars, all helping to complete the atmosphere.

Steve and myself had managed to get at least one decent perch most days, I did blank on one day though, it had been a frustrating day passing over many fish but not able to get them to take the lure. The biggest fish boated during the week was in perch terms a tiddler at around 25lb, Steve, having seen many bigger fish on previous trips with a p.b. well over 150lb was not impressed. I however having never even seen a Nile perch before, was quite happy and we still had a couple of hours to go before we had to head back to Aswan. You know sometimes you get a feeling something will happen? Well I had such a feeling most of the week that we would get a big fish and it would be at the very last minute before we would get it.

Sunday morning started as normal with a short trip back to an area Steve had managed a fish from the previous evening, but an hours trolling proved fruitless. Morad suggested we visit one last area before breakfast, then without fail we would have to return to Aswan a good 3 hours distance away. The first passes over the area produced nothing, but Morad told us there were fish showing on the finder. Without any warning somehow I had hooked what felt like an express train heading in the other direction at about 100mph, within seconds, 75 yards of line had gone and in a foolish attempt to slow the fish I had got a nasty burn on my thumb. Morad had responded to the Cry of “fish on” and was reversing the boat in an attempt to allow me to catch up with what was obviously a big fish. As the fish jumped clear of the water, my premonition was proving correct. Steve was brilliant having had big fish and plenty of them, his experience and help was vital as the fish tried hard to shed the lure. After what seemed like an hour but was around 10 minutes the fish was beaten, my arms full of lactic acid and aching, my head was light with pure adrenalin, and I was emotionally tearful as estimates by Steve told me I had done the ton.

A short trip to shore had the fish tethered in shallow water whilst I regained some composure and Steve got the camera ready. With the sling zeroed it took 4 of us to hold things steady enough to read the scales which read just short of 50 kgs. Which converts to 110lb! I was elated the biggest fish I had ever seen let alone caught, I also know Steve was well chuffed, having been there and got the Tee shirt he was a true gent in his congratulations.

With the fish returned it was a late breakfast before our long trip back to port. Myself and Steve spending most of the time repacking gear safely for the flight home the next evening.

Our last evening in Egypt was spent in a luxury hotel on the banks of the Nile. Negrashi, the owner of the boats that Angling Direct Holidays use in Egypt had arranged our hotel and had also agreed to meet us for an evening meal. Steve had met Negrashi on his previous trips so they had some catching up to do.

With our flight leaving Aswan at 18.00 we had a few hours to kill before leaving for the airport. A trip to the local street markets provided us with an insight into real Egyptian life, a revelation for a Norfolk carrot cruncher believe me. A far cry from Norwich market on a Saturday afternoon let me tell you. Our Taxi arrived on time and after an interesting drive to the airport we were soon checked in and awaiting our flight home.

I would like to take the opportunity to thank the following people for their help and support

Steve, thanks for a great holiday mate, also the loan of the gear, your chocolate and vodka

Lynda for being like my mum tidying my cloths and looking after me. Oh also for taking some great pictures of my big fish.

Negrashi, Morad, Hamsa. And Kahlil for their Egyptian hospitality

Angling Direct Holidays for organising a great trip

Pictures by Adrian Kiddell, Steve Ames and Lynda Baker