| QUESTION OF THE WEEK Mark Andrew Jarvis (Jarvy@karenhannah.freeserve.co.uk) wins a bulk spool of Shimano Catana mono for: FISHERY DREAMS Like so many other anglers, I dream of having a house beside my own lake. But I (along with the backing of my wife), wish to make that a reality. We are in the process of trying to obtain some land to build our own house on it and, if permitted, eventually dig our own lake, which I would like to open as a fishery business around 5 years from now. So as to limit the amount of land that I have to dig/landscape, I am looking to take over an existing gravel pit that the relevant company has finished extracting from and then landscape as required and build our house there. Living very close to the Shimano lakes in Oxfordshire has got me thinking that there are opportunities for persons like myself to invest in these waters and fulfil a life long dream. Therefore I am writing to you to ask for your help. What I am trying to find out is how long after the extraction company has finished will I be able to start readying the water for stocking with fish? Such as placing reeds, lily pads, creating weedbeds, etc. Also how do I find out as to whether the water in question would be suitable for stocking with fish, ie, alkaline level, pH level, etc? DR PAUL GARNER, PhD IN FISHERIES ECOLOGY AND SUCCESSFUL SPECIALIST ANGLER, ANSWERS Having your own fishery is certainly not something to be taken on lightly unless you win the lottery! Anything to do with water seems to consume money like it is going out of fashion, and fisheries are no exception. The first thing I would do would be to decide where in the country I want to live. Water does become available all over the place, but just like other types of property you will pay much more in the South East. Next you need to decide what kind of fishery you want to have. You will probably have your own ideas about this already, but I would still take the time to check out the opposition, are there any gaps in the market? If you want the fishery to be a profit generating business then you really only have two options, day ticket fishing, or weekly holidays. Both of these mean having lots of strangers wandering around the place, perhaps disturbing your privacy, which is an important consideration. If money isn’t so important then syndicates are an option, but unless you are taking over a mature fishery then it will be several years (or cost a fortune) before people will be willing to fork out for a syndicate place. Don’t expect people to share your dream, most people want a bit of quiet fishing now, not in ten years time! Gravel pits rarely come up for sale freehold. Most are retained under lease as there is more money to be made filling them with rubbish than in taking the gravel out in the first place! Other fisheries are always available though. The best person to contact regarding purchasing existing water is Martin Freeman at Fenn Wright solicitors in Ipswich (tel: 01473 417719). Martin has a register of fisheries for sale covering much of the country. It would also be worthwhile contacting any land agents in your chosen area. One option you might like to consider is digging a lake from scratch. This might cost more in the short term, but does allow you to tailor the design to your own needs. Bear in mind though that this will require planning permission, perhaps change of land usage and even the lifting of agricultural ties. If you are constructing reservoirs then above approximately three acres you must submit detailed surveyors plans as there is an increased risk of flooding. Digging from scratch is probably the best option for fisheries up to a few acres in size, particularly match fisheries, which can be made very fair by offering a similar layout in each peg. Generally it is a good idea to allow the lake a few weeks to settle down before stocking or planting. This will allow the silt to settle out and for any chemicals to leach out of the soil.
I would try to get plants in as soon as possible in the Spring/Summer and leave stocking with fish until the plants have settled. Don’t put plants in during the winter as they won’t be growing and are likely to encourage more bird life. Generally it is the birds that uproot plants rather than fish, so try and protect the new shoots from our feathered friends. After a few weeks stock a small number of visible fish, carp are good as they will be seen rolling and sunning themselves. Don’t be in too much of a hurry to stock lots of fish. It will take a few months for the bacteria and fungi to build up their numbers sufficiently to consume the waste produced by the fish (just like a garden pond, but on a bigger scale!) The key is not to rush things, and to always buy from reputable dealers. Before you stock and fish though you will need to speak to your local Environment Agency Fisheries Officer. They will be able to help you with any stockings consents that may be required and will also have a great deal of useful local information. RUNNER-UP QUESTION ZIG-RIG Tricia McGrath (pm100@btinternet.com) wins a runner-up prize of 100yds of Shimano Exage mono for: What is a zig-rig and when would you use it? ‘RIVER CARP’ BOOK AUTHOR AND TOP SPECIALIST ANGLER NEIL WAYTE ANSWERS: A zig-rig is an adaptation of the basic pop-up rig. Instead of popping a bait up a couple of inches you can fish a bait as high in the water as you want. All you do is tie up a very long hook length (I’ve used them up to 12 foot long) and attach a pop-up. It can be a pig to cast and some people coil the long hook length up and tie it with some PVA string which will melt once it’s in the water. The zig-rig comes in to it’s own when the fish are cruising just below the surface and by judging the depth you can present a bait at the correct depth so the carp come across a bait at the depth they are swimming. SEA FISHING TACKLE Phil Maguire (philip.maguire@cgey.com) asks: Whilst on holiday recently my son persuaded me to buy him a rod and reel. Neither of us have fished before, and thought it would be a good thing to take up. The rod in question is a collapsible beach rod which extends to 4.5 meters. The reel is of indeterminate origin, but looks fairly cheap and nasty. Given that neither of us knows how to tie a knot, what sort of line, bait or hooks to use, where to actually try the thing out or whether the rod and reel are kosher. My questions are:- If we do make a stab at fishing from the nearest beach, what sort of line/hooks/bait (and anything else) do we need? Should we even bother to start fishing with this kit, or will the experience be likely to put us off? TOP SEA ANGLER DAVE GODWIN ANSWERS: The tackle you describe will obviously not be the best, but do not let that put you off, part of the fun is being there and learning together with your son (it often pays to let them think they are learning quicker than you!). You want some main line of about 15-18lb breaking strain and you will need a shock leader as well. Tie one end of the main line to the spool of the reel and wind all the line onto the reel, this line will not be strong enough to withstand the power of a cast so we need to tie a length of 60lb breaking strain line on to the main line. This heavier line needs to be long enough to make about six turns around the spool of the reel and then go up the length of the rod and then about a 6ft length from the rod tip. On the bottom you can tie your fishing weight and your hooks can be positioned approx 1ft up from the weight and another 1ft up from the first. This is called a ‘Paternoster’ rig. Your hooks should be about size 1/0 to start with as I do not know where you will be fishing or what you are likely to catch. Your local tackle shop will be a mine of information as regards to what you can catch, where, when and what baits you will need. If they are not helpful, change your tackle shop. I am in the process of writing a complete beginners guide but it is some way off yet but feel free to email me at skip@blueyonder.co.uk with any queries or triumphs. PS: stick with it, it’s worth it!!! NEW ZEALAND CASEIN Dave (Davearservice@aol.com) asks: I have been using a base mix for the past three years, unfortunately my supplier no longer stocks it. The base mix is New Zealand casein 90 mesh in 25 kg bags. Have you any suggestions or know of a supplier? FM CARP COLUMNIST BIG RIK ANSWERS: 90 mesh casein is the New Zealand rennet version and is one of the main ingredients in milk protein boilies. It’s used at between four and eight ounces per pound mix. A 25kg sack would be enough to last about four or five seasons, but it would have degraded by then, so large amounts are only really sold to the few remaining bait companies that still sell individual ingredients. 1kg bags are available for about £ 12.50 or so. Wind up, or someone asking fictitious questions? Either way, you can’t make boilies from it without cutting it at least 50% with something else. OMEGA POND PELLETS Sid Rob (SdnRb@aol.com) asks: I have tried to make Omega Pond Pellets sink so I can use them on the hook and feed but with no success. There was an article in the Angling Times on 14th May 02 but they come out all mussy (soak in boiling water 5 min drain seal in tub over night). FM BAITS & FLAVOURS COLUMNIST DAVE DOWDING (MR WRIGGLES) ANSWERS: Not having used the Omega Pond Pellets I can only offer general advice when making up soft pellets and hope it will be of some use to you. When soaking any kind of floating pellets to soften them, try and put them in a bowl large enough to allow a single layer of pellets. This will allow them to swell and absorb without added pressure. When you soak them in boiling water just add enough to cover the pellets as overfilling can also help turn the pellets too soft. Maybe its just me but I have noticed batch variations especially with what I call ornamental pellets (for general pet type fish). In the past I have bought another bag/sack of the same pellets and soaked them for the same period as the previous ones only to find that they have turned to mush or are still too hard for the hook. So what I tend to do now is to put just a handful of pellets into a small bowl and try them out with the same method. If they end up mushy then I will drop the soak time by about half and try that. It may sound a pain but it saves a lot of wasted time and pellets in the end. FISH ANTISEPTIC YATESP222@aol.com (no name given) asks: Can you tell me the best antiseptic to use on captured fish if they have sores or missing scales to help them fight infection? GRAHAM, FM EDITOR, ANSWERS: There are several antiseptics on the market for treating fish but the original and best known is Kryston’s Klin-Ik. Apart from the uses you mention it isn’t a bad idea to dab the area where you removed the hook just to help along the natural healing process. Available from most larger tackle dealers at £ 4.90 for a 30ml bottle. | |||
Would prize winners please let me have their street addresses – send to graham@fishingmagic.com. |
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