Stu Dexter plays a barbel caught while waggler fishing the river Dove

So far in this series I have concentrated on how to get the best out of using floats attached top-and-bottom on moving waters. The control and bait presentation are usually far superior to that achievable with bottom end floats especially on where the flow is anything more than sluggish. There is a place for using bottom-end-only floats (commonly called wagglers) on rivers however, when circumstances are such that either presentation is improved, or this is the only way to succeed.

When to fish a waggler

What are those circumstances and how do I recognise them? The first instance is slow and steady water particularly with a wind that is causing surface drift. The second one is distance. The final one is being able to produce a different presentation to that achievable with other floats. This might mean being able to fish on the drop, or dragging on, or even under a bush. Although a top and bottom float can be cast more than twenty yards out it will not be easy to retain good control of it unless the wind is light or favourable. By sinking the line it might be possible to keep control of the float. This skill takes a lot of practice but it is an art worth mastering.

Keep it simple

I offer some simple guidelines for using a waggler. When learning to use a waggler, make things easy for yourself. Don’t fish at long range or in a difficult wind. As with learning to trot the top and bottom float look for an even flowing swim. Experimentation is the key to success with this method, so don’t be afraid to try different floats, shotting patterns or techniques whilst fishing with a waggler to get it to work properly. Even during the course of a day changes to wind strength and direction, or light conditions can also demand changes.

Firstly ensure that you can cast the required distance with ease. Don’t bring the float too near the rod tip when casting. Allow at least four feet of line if possible so that the rod can wind-up the power efficiently and do its job properly. Concentrate on getting the timing of the release right and there should be no great swishing noises. Feather the float onto the water by using your finger to gently brake the line as it leaves the spool so that the terminal tackle is gently straightened as it lands, rather than landing in a heap. For these early attempts don’t try to fish too far out; up to fifteen yards is about right. For water up to five feet deep 2AAA locking shot is fine, with, say, 6 number 8 shot down the line, up to eight or nine feet will need perhaps 3AAA, with 8 no 8 down the line. Start off by evenly spacing the no 8 shot between the float and hook. It is best to avoid really deep water for the moment.

When to sink the line

Only sink the line if it is absolutely necessary. Sunken line buffers the strike and cannot be mended when trotting. Whilst it is possible to mend the line to a degree when fishing with a waggler it is often the case that a large belly of line will develop, but provided the float is not pulled off course a long sweeping strike will connect with the fish. It is sometimes better to strike towards the bank in this instance rather than upstream so that the strike is not merely trying to straighten the bow in the line. Learn to strike with a steady pull rather that the sharper lift needed for top-and-bottom floats. This is why the tip-actioned stick float rods are much less suitable for waggler fishing. It is sometimes the case that the fish is only felt when some line is reeled in after the strike.


A selection of waggler floats
The thicker tipped floats (without inserts) are better for dragging on, whereas inserts are better for on-the-drop fishing to show lift bites. The length of the float has a bearing on its controllability, long floats help get the line underneath surface skim but may not be so suitable in shallow water and also impede the strike. To start waggler fishing look for a 2AAA float of about 9 inches long with a 3AAA float about an inch longer. There is a place for much shorter or longer floats but they are much more specialist.

Tip colours for wagglers

Although I mostly prefer red tipped floats, black tips often show up better on wide waters with no trees on the skyline, or yellow may be better where there are lots of trees with bright green reflections. The most difficult conditions are when there is a breeze with black and white checkerboard, especially facing the sun, or in very low light levels.

Shotting a waggler

Shotting patterns can be much lighter down the line than the equivalent top-and-bottom float. The shot load that locks the float normally comprises about 2/3 to

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