Quick question…

[John3852]

Back in the late ‘80’s when I 1st started fishing, I bought an Olympic match carbon rod.
the info on the rod is as follows:
Action: 10-30g
Length: 3.60m
Section: 3PCS
Weight: 240g

can anyone explain what the ”Action“ for this rod means please?

 

[seth49]

Minimum and maximum casting weights.

 

[John3852]

Minimum and maximum casting weights.

Thanks Seth

 

[Keith M]

Seth was correct of course; however Where it states Action:10-30grm that’s a bit misleading because a rods ‘Action’ normally refers to whether it’s a ‘tip action’ or ‘Tip to middle Action’ or ‘through action’ or anything else in the scale of rod actions.

However given that it equates to 10-30grm as Seth rightly said it must be the recommended minimum and maximum casting weights.

A light float rods ‘Action’ would usually be either ‘Tip Action’ or ‘Tip to middle Action’ which will pick up line better when striking using a float; one of which is very likely the ‘action’ of your float rod; if it is a float rod.

Tight lines

Keith

 

[John3852]

Seth was correct of course; however Where it states Action:10-30grm that’s a bit misleading because a rods ‘Action’ normally refers to whether it’s a ‘tip action’ or ‘Tip to middle Action’ or ‘through action’ or anything else in the scale of rod actions.

However given that it equates to 10-30grm as Seth rightly said it must be the recommended minimum and maximum casting weights.

A light float rods ‘Action’ would usually be either ‘Tip Action’ or ‘Tip to middle Action’ which will pick up line better when striking using a float; one of which is very likely the ‘action’ of your float rod.

Tight lines

Keith

Thanks Keith. As I have recently started fishing again I’m trying to understand the type of fish this is ideal for and whether I should continue with this rod or buy a new one.

 

[Keith M]

With your 10-30g float rod:
10g = approx ⅓ of an ounce
30g = approx 1oz



As the average shot size for a normal waggler when using a float rod is usually around the 3AAA mark (2.4g); the 10g to 30g rating for your match/float rod seems a bit too high for a normal float rod;

if it was me I would get myself a lighter float rod suitable for casting light wagglers if you want to float fish for Roach, Rudd, Bream and smallish Tench, or a slightly heavier ‘commercial float rod’ If you want it to be able to handle larger fish as well as handling the smaller species using a waggler.

Keith

 

[mikench]

The current rod sounds like a feeder/ ledgering rod and definitely not a float rod. I too would buy a decent float rod which might also be called a match rod but with much lighter loads. By all means try your rod for both and see what you think. I would start afresh if I wasn’t impressed first time out.I have never heard of Olympic. If it was a Shimano or Daiwa then a different story.

 

[mikench]

A quick google reveals the rod was probably made in Japan but was regarded as low end with little demand or interest in them today.

 

[Keith M]

John, reading your first post again you said it was an Olympic ‘match’ carbon rod but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a ‘Float’ rod as I previously assumed (to me a ‘Match’ rod has always meant a float rod). So as Mike said it could be a feeder/ledgering rod and not made for using a float.

If it wasn’t a three piece rod It could even have been a medium to heavy spinning/lure rod (I have several different 2 piece spinning/lure rods one of which is rated for casting lures of around 10-30g-ish) but being a three piece rod I think it’s more likely to be a feeder/ledgering rod as Mike has already suggested.

Keith

 

[mikench]

A photo or two of the rod, rings and reel seat might help determine the type of rod it is.

 

[John3852]

A photo or two of the rod, rings and reel seat might help determine the type of rod it is.

Hi Mike, thanks for your comments. I’ve attached a few photos as requested.

 

[seth49]

Most game fishing spinning rods are rated like that, ie 10 to 30 gram etc.I have at least two three piece spinning rods, a Shimano and a greys.

think it was to have a spinning rod in the car boot, in case the river was to high for fly fishing

 

[mikench]

I reckon it’s a feeder rod John and none the worse for that. I love feeder fishing. Give the rod a try with a few feeders and see how you like it. I would change the mono on your reel if it dates back to the 80’s . Buy Steve Ringers guide to feeder fishing which will help.

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There is a similar book by Tommy Pickering. Try eBay for both.

 

[John3852]

I reckon it’s a feeder rod John and none the worse for that. I love feeder fishing. Give the rod a try with a few feeders and see how you like it. I would change the mono on your reel if it dates back to the 80’s . Buy Steve Ringers guide to feeder fishing which will help.

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There is a similar book by Tommy Pickering. Try eBay for both.

Thanks for your help and advice Mike - I won’t put it back into storage just yet, and will certainly have a look at books you’ve recommended. Thanks again

 

[Keith M]

The only thing that makes me wonder is that the rod in the pictures looks like it has stand-off rings ???
Which are usually meant to stop your line from sticking to the blank in damp conditions when your using light floats; which would severely hamper the casting of a light float.

You don’t normally have ‘stand-off rings’ unless it’s a float rod; however every other thing points towards it being a leger rod.

Perhaps it is trying to be everything (float and ledger) but is sadly failing?

Based on its casting weights I suspect it’s a ledgering rod regardless of its stand-off rod rings

Keith

 

[John3852]

The only thing that makes me wonder is that the rod in the pictures looks like it has stand-off rings ???
Which are usually meant to stop your line from sticking to the blank in damp conditions when your using light floats; which would severely hamper the casting of a light float.

You don’t normally have ‘stand-off rings’ unless it’s a float rod; however every other thing points towards being a leger rod.

Perhaps it is trying to be everything (float and ledger) but is sadly failing?

Based on its casting weights I suspect it’s a ledgering rod regardless of its stand-off rod rings

Keith

I wouldn’t know a stand-off ring if you threw one at me I might take it into my local shop and let them have a close look and see what they say

 

[@Clive]

Seth was correct of course; however Where it states Action:10-30grm that’s a bit misleading because a rods ‘Action’ normally refers to whether it’s a ‘tip action’ or ‘Tip to middle Action’ or ‘through action’ or anything else in the scale of rod actions.

However given that it equates to 10-30grm as Seth rightly said it must be the recommended minimum and maximum casting weights.

A light float rods ‘Action’ would usually be either ‘Tip Action’ or ‘Tip to middle Action’ which will pick up line better when striking using a float; one of which is very likely the ‘action’ of your float rod; if it is a float rod.

Tight lines

Keith

I wouldn't read too much into that Keith. Olympic rods were made in the Far East and marketed at the bottom end of the price range. These rods often had names that did not relate to their use in European markets and often had contradicting designs such as stand off rings on a blank more suited to spinning.

 

[John3852]

I have a 1.5oz quiver tip which I originally purchased with the rod, however since starting again these past 2/3 weeks I’ve been using the rod for float fishing with an insert waggler.

Yesterday I visited my local Angling Direct store and purchased a new Preston Ignition 10ft Carp Feeder, Daiwa Ninja Match/Feeder reel and the associated line and feeder tackle. I’m now looking forward to using them on my local fishery next week.

Depending how things go with the new rod, I might be encouraged to use my original rod for feeder fishing